Monday, September 11, 2023

Excerpts from John Gierach's "A Fly Rod of Your Own"


Anglers travel a long way to find a seemingly inexhaustible supply of big, wild, gullible fish, but unless you’re trying to feed a village for the winter, there’s no reason to catch a boatload.  After five fish in a row you can say you’ve figured it out; at ten you’ve made your point; and somewhere short of twenty a sense of unease develops that could easily blossom into embarrassment.  The trick is to enjoy the spectacle and then quit while it’s still fun.

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Fishermen claim to love the sea-run fish for their size, but what we really love is the unimaginable size of their lives.

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Back home on my desk was a detailed list of things that would all take too much time and cost too much money but had to be done anyway, and I was happy to be on a distant river ignoring my life.

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A fish hit hard on the inside of the main current and was into the backing before I fully grasped the idea that I’d hooked a steelhead.  By then it was halfway down the run, where I could see the guide reeling in and backing out of the river to avoid fouling my line.  This felt like a heavy fish (they all feel heavy at first), but with any luck, time would tell.  I settled into the precarious sense of well-being that you don’t have to describe to another steelheader and can’t describe to anyone else.

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The way we use it now, “wilderness” is a word that has more to do with emotion than with a specific definition.  Saying “wilderness” is like saying “great singer,” which could mean anyone from Luciano Pavarotti to Johnny Cash.  But one thing it can mean is a region that’s still so vast, wet, roadless, and remote that you need a floatplane to get around in it.

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I’m still one of those anglers Thomas McGuane once described as “searching less for recreation than for a kind of stillness.”

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Fishermen on the water are always aware of how others are doing, even though we make a show of seeming not to notice. 

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The intelligence of trout is overrated, but once they’ve been caught and released often enough, it must start to dawn on them that their once-carefree lives are now plagued by booby traps.  Even when you end up hooking a confidently feeding trout, you can’t shake the feeling that he wasn’t entirely fooled by your fly.  You’ll see the fish slow down, rise cautiously, hesitate, and then nail the fly as if he were trying to snatch something out of a fire without getting burned.

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Every body of water has its idiosyncrasies.  Learning them takes time and attentiveness, but finally leads to the rare and useful sense of knowing where you are and what you’re doing.

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Trout often live in beautiful places, and if you feel like stopping to look, you should.  It’s not like you’re wasting time.  Soon enough you’ll be back to scanning the surface of the lake the way a general surveys a battlefield.

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There are few prolonged flawless performances in fishing, but a handful of trout caught in the same careful way are enough.  They make up for a whole day’s worth of blown casts and flushed fish, and maybe even for a lifetime spent chasing trout.  After all, that’s why we fish: for those days when it goes right and you think, this is all I could have hoped for.

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Since fly-fishing is a solitary sport, it’s hard not to think of other fishermen – collectively, if not individually – as the enemy.  The best advice you can give either a fisherman or a writer is: don’t do what everyone else does.  Avoid clichés.

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Locals have a certain disdain for out-of-town fishermen.  They understand that we do a lot to support the local economy by renting rooms and buying groceries and trout flies, but they’d really rather we just stayed home and mailed in the money.

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We caught fish for a while and were then left with the prospect of a few slow hours, which is pretty much the standard profile for any day of fishing.  None of us is any more philosophical about this than the next guy, but we have gotten past the pipe dream of nonstop action.

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Sometimes before going to work, a cabinetmaker will quizzically heft and stroke an oak plank as though he’s never seen a piece of wood before.  Likewise, a certain kind of fisherman can watch a run for the longest time before tying on a fly and making a cast.  This is a universal ritual of craftsmanship: take a deep breath; don’t rush; erase preconceptions.  Or maybe they’re both reminding themselves that mastery of anything is sometimes a matter of seeing the silver lining in what a less creative thinker would consider a disadvantage.

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The days when you could think of the natural world as immutable may well be coming to an end, and regular fishing trips are now like blue jeans: just when they start to get nice and comfortable, the knees blow out.  The only alternative to living with regret is to go looking for new water.

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My guide got the net under him.  He was a big double-handful with an orange belly and white-bordered fins wearing the universal dumbstruck expression of a caught fish.

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Trout have their passing moods, but salmon seem prone to something more akin to manic depression: violent one minute, catatonic the next.

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Trying to catch a salmon is like playing with a cat: the rules change without notice, and your problem is often nothing more than a failure of imagination.

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He was amazed that he’d had a close brush with such a fish.  He was naturally heartbroken about not landing it, but also saw it as an adventure in possibility, so he’d been fishing with that vision in mind ever since, not really believing he’d hook that same fish or another like it again, but not entirely resigned that he wouldn’t, either.

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Fly-fishing isn’t as hard as some make it out to be, but it does demand your full attention, so if you’re worried that your investments are going south or that your wife is cheating on you, chances are you won’t fish well.  It sounds like heresy, but there really are days when you should have stayed home to take care of business instead of going fishing. 

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I almost always fish better with friends or when I’m alone and unobserved than when there are strangers around – especially strangers who stop to watch or, worse yet, train a camera on me.

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Fishing is still an oddly passive-aggressive business that depends on the prey being the aggressor.

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I find it a constant struggle to live with the kind of simplicity that eliminates struggle.  All I can do is keep reminding myself that Lee Wulff once said, “the last thing you should change is your fly,” which is good advice that’s easier to follow when you don’t have five hundred flies to choose from.

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(On canvas fly fishing vests “with twelve pockets on the outside and eight more on the inside, each with more pockets than the previous one in case I needed them, which I somehow always did.”)

Nature abhors an empty pocket.  So does the tackle industry.

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Sooner or later, everyone who writes about fishing gets around to talking about why they do it.  In the real world, those who fish already get it, and those who don’t couldn’t care less.  It’s not exactly a secret society or anything; but really, if you want to talk about the trip of a lifetime to some remote river, don’t waste your breath on someone who doesn’t fish.

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A lifetime of fishing runs through your mind when you look at new water.

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King salmon are appallingly strong.  It sounds overwrought to say that you can feel the ocean in a hooked salmon, but there’s no other way to put it.  The fish has your complete attention, and you believe you’ll remember every second of the fight with unnatural clarity, right down to the pewter-colored sky and the cool drizzle on the backs of your hands.  But memory survives as a series of snapshots, some of which get misplaced, so although I still clearly remember the fish in the net, I’m now no longer sure how it got there.

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(On the excitement of cradling a king salmon “the size of a ’52 Buick’s chrome bumper” countered in the bewildering moment by an opposing disappointment - or electronic misfortune - of discovering that each of three trip cameras are plagued with dead batteries.)

The four of us stood there with current whispering around our waders, reminding ourselves that the salmon is not the photo of the salmon, which will never quite stand up to the living memory anyway.  The salmon is the salmon itself, here and gone so fleetingly that half an hour later you’ll wonder if it was even real.

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Two mornings and two provinces later I’d board the first of two small planes with pontoons instead of wheels, and the rod tube would begin to seem less like an awkwardly shaped object I had to lug around and more like the key to the universe.

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(On the love of travelling by car through America’s Mountain West.  “Even though the distances can be daunting, the destination sometimes days away...” the author reminds himself “that tourists make this trip for its own sake.”)

Driving anywhere in the West is like traveling by hot-air balloon: it takes forever to get anywhere, but you can’t beat the view.

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(On targeting any sea-run fish, and coming to appreciate the grind of repetitive casting “as a kind of moral imperative” or a “reward of persistence,” albeit a fisherman “never entirely comes to terms with the dead spells in steelheading.”)

When swinging flies is unproductive, the accepted solution is to keep swinging flies, fishing out every cast as if this were the one, because it could be.

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It’s hard to describe the physics and tactics of landing a fish beyond that when a fish does something, you do nothing, and when the fish does nothing, you do something.  It’s fair to say that if you play it too hard, you’ll lose it, and you’ll also lose it if you don’t play it hard enough.  There are those who say they fish to relax, but how can you relax when there’s so much at stake?

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(On netting a “six-pound male brook trout built like a cinder block with a humped back, wearing his best orange spawning colors” on the George River in Quebec.)

This was a prosperous fish in his prime, and if he had a thought in his head, it was only to pass on his blue-ribbon genes.  After I released him, the French-Canadian guide shook my hand as if I’d just won a Pulitzer Prize, which is more or less how I felt.

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I went down to look at the river and stood there wondering how I could so dearly love something that’s really just an example of water obeying the laws of physics.

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Like everyone else I know, I had plenty of things to do besides go fishing; I just couldn’t think of any of them at the moment.

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I’m standing just upstream of the lodge owner, watching him throw a spoon four times farther than I can cast my fly and feeling a little nervous.  His cast is high and across the wind so that the trailing monofilament describes a graceful, parabolic curve.  As one of only four fishermen in who knows how many thousands of square miles, I’d feel really stupid if we got tangled up.

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It is almost impossible to explain to someone who doesn’t fish, but every angler understands that if you don’t retrieve a fly as if it matters, then it no longer matters.

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(On fishing for char at the edge of the Canadian Arctic tundra.)

I’ve eaten lots of fish in lots of places, often as fresh as it comes, but the char from this river are the best I’ve ever had.  Given the cost of getting here and back, these fish constitute the most expensive meals I’ve ever eaten, but that’s somehow beside the point.  The point is that if there’s one fish in the river, there are more, so a mess of them for dinner suddenly looks more promising.

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“There’s a nice fish.”  The comment seems so out of context that it doesn’t register at first.  I haven’t been paying attention, and although I just made yet another cast on autopilot, I don’t know where my fly is, either.  I frantically scan the water in front of me.  It’s perfectly transparent for the first twenty or thirty feet, but beyond that it’s the same opaque gray as the sky and stippled with raindrops.  I make the first strip in some time that’s lively instead of languid, then two shorter ones, and the fly stops as definitively as if I’d hooked a log.  I make a short, hard set, and the fish bores off back toward the main current, angling downstream.  I get two fingers into my reel spool to act as a soft break and begin backing out of the water so I can chase the fish downstream.  My legs are stiff enough from the cold that they don’t seem entirely under my control, but I manage to get out of the river without falling.  I can’t believe I’ve hooked a fish.  I’m also painfully aware that I hooked this one by accident while daydreaming, so in some pure-sports sense I probably don’t reserve it, but I want it anyway.  Of course you naturally want to land every fish you hook, but you want it even more when you’ve come a long way, frozen your ass off, and were convinced up until ten seconds ago that you were in the process of getting skunked.

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After a certain point everyone’s life is informed by loss.  It’s not surprising, but it’s still a surprise.  The permanence of it feels like a life sentence, and there’s always an echo of selfish regret: if there was anything that could have been made right, it’s too late now, and it always will be.  For one thing, Mom now joined the growing number of dead people in my address book whose names I don’t have the heart to cross out and who may eventually come to outnumber the living. 

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It’s hard to describe, but there’s a specific feeling of finality when the fishing is done for the day.








© 2017 (Simon & Schuster)


Friday, January 27, 2023

Excerpts from Thomas McGuane's "The Longest Silence: A Life in Fishing"

 We like to think of the idea of selective trout; it serves our anthropocentricity to believe that we are in a duel of wits with a fish, a sporting proposition.  We would do well to understand that trout and other game fish are entirely lacking in sporting instincts.  They would prefer to dine unmolested and without being eaten themselves.

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All salmonids must be saluted for bearing upon their collective shoulders the burden of generations of contradictory theorizing as to what they want to eat and how they are best persuaded to give up their lives and freedom.

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We have reached the time in the life of the planet, and humanity’s demands upon it, when every fisherman will have to be a riverkeeper, a steward of marine shallows, a watchman on the high seas.  We are beyond having to put back what we have taken out.  We must put back more than we take out.

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The motto of every serious angler is “Nearer My God to Thee.”  Humans have suspected for thousands of years that angling and religion are connected.  But if you can find no higher ideal than outfishing your buddies, catching something big enough to stuff or winning a trophy, you have a lot of work to do before you are what Izaak Walton would call an angler.

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Early on, I decided that fishing would be my way of looking at the world.  First it taught me how to look at rivers.  Lately it has been teaching me how to look at people, myself included.  I simply feel that the frontier of angling is no longer either technical or geographical.  The Bible tells us to watch and to listen.  Something like this suggests what fishing ought to be about: using the ceremony of our sport and passion to arouse greater reverberations within ourselves.

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Standing on a boulder amid breaking surf that is forming offshore, accelerating and rolling toward you is, after awhile, like looking into a fire.  It is mesmeric.

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(On the author surf fishing after sunset from some acquainted rocky shoreline of Sakonnet, RI)

I looked out to sea in the last light, the white rollers coming in around me.  The clearest item of civilization from my perspective was a small tanker heading north.  The air was chilly.  The beach where I had sunned myself as a child looked lonely and cold.  But from behind me came intimate noises: the door of a house closing, voices, a lawn mower.  And, to a great extent, this is the character of bass fishing from the shore.  In very civilized times it is reassuring to know that wild fish will run so close that a man on foot and within earshot of lawn mowers can touch their wildness with a fishing rod.

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At the end of a fishing trip you’re inclined to summarize things in your mind.  A tally is needed for the quick description you will be asked for: so many fish at such-and-such weights and the method employed.  Inevitably, what actually happened is indescribable.

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One of the exhilarations of fishing new places lies in rendering advice into some kind of obtained reality.  Cast the fly, you are told, right along the bank and the trout will rise to it.  So you cast and you cast until presently you are blue in the face and the appealing syllogism you started with is not always finished.  When it does not work, you bring your vanquished person back to the dock, where there is no way to weigh or measure the long face you have brought instead of fish.  At the first whiskey, you announce that it has been a trying day.  Then someone else says that it is nice just to get out.  Irrationally, you wonder how you can get even for that remark.

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It is this sort of possession you look for when angling.  To watch the river flowing, the insects landing and hatching, the places where trout hold, and to insinuate the supple, binding movement of tapered line until, when the combination is right, the line becomes rigid and many of its motions are conceived at the other end.  That stage continues for a time dictated by the size of the trout and the skill of the angler.  When the initiative changed hands, the trout is soon in the net, without an idea in his head until you release him.  Then you see him go off, looking for a spot, and thinking. 

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At a number of places, birds were diving into schools of bait pushed by predatorial fish underneath.  There would be a patch of rough water with a stream of birds trailing from it like drifting white smoke.

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We skirmished with a couple of schools of false albacore without success, casting from the drifting boat into the bait, the albacore cutting through like fighter planes in the clear water, succeeding through speed rather than maneuverability.  With little opportunity to tease them into taking, it was hit or miss.  We missed.

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(On the remarkable and profound encounter of experiencing a twenty-fish day)

Every once in a while, angling provides an episode one can keep for life.  It is not necessarily about big fish, though it sometimes is, nor about great difficulty overcome.  Rather, it’s a kind of poetic singularity.  Sometimes you’re even aware of it as it’s happening.

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The feeding of this big school of bass was creating what looked like a low breaker traveling steadily over the surface.  A dark mass of bait like a shadow full of silver flashes moved ahead of the disturbance.  Along the entire front of the wave, the length of it, were… mouths.  Above and all down its length hovered the terns whose forked tails touched the water when they sighted bait, caught it and swept away.

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(On fighting - and losing - “the largest resident trout I’d ever hooked” and “watching the hundred yards of line shrink”)

Then the trout stopped.  A single turn of backing remained on the spindle at the center of my empty reel.  Yet the fish had stopped right then and there!  It was like literature!  He paused long enough for me to consider how wonderful life could be when it had great literature-style items, such as coincidence and fate and elegant ironies.  Then, in that moment of anti-magic, when literature is converted to the far more familiar aspects of the land in which we actually live and breathe and spend our days, the great trout turned and straightened my hook.  I had so much line downstream that there was still a substantial bow in my rod.  I had to reel it all in.  I had to salute the now-absent great fish who had made such short shrift of me.  The more line I reeled in, the less bow there was in my rod, and finally, with nothing to commemorate the fish except the whispering river around my knees, my rod was nothing but a straight, dead stick.  But there was a terrific, evangelical silence.  It is a fact that we are made almost entirely of river water, but the flesh that remains organizes this spectral borrowing from riparian valleys and, rod in hand, blesses our origins by counting coups. 

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It seems to me there are several schools of fly-tying: traditional, imitative, defiant, and autobiographical.

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Fish are suspicious of perfect imitations of the naturals.  This quest to copy, to some anglers like me, is not an interesting idea and may remind one of those superior grade-school companions whose model airplanes made one’s own efforts such objects of ridicule.

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One of the most difficult accomplishments in fly-tying is to reexamine an established category and do it better and more simply.

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(On traditional fly patterns, those that are especially “simple yet madly difficult to tie”)

Any sustained perusal of the fly books of the world should demonstrate that fish have been remarkably tolerant of our follies.  Clearly, it is not what those long-gone or far-flung anglers offered the fish, it’s how they offered it.

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There is a sort of infatuation when an angler looks at flies.  We look through pictures of flies much as we search through our old high school yearbooks, a kind of a scanning process until something stops the eye.  The same feeling is obtained when looking in the compartments of a fly shop or fly box.  An odd transference occurs in the imagination.  One holds up the fly and thinks both like a fish and like a fisherman, and perhaps as a species of prey, all at once; though maybe it is not thinking.  A convergence of emotion is sought, the unknowable conviction of a sorcerer, the feeling that, yes, this will do nicely, a feeling that enlarges as the fly is knotted to the tippet, held again to the light to further charge one’s conviction, then off it goes at the end of a cast.  If it catches fish, a wider smile opens within.  If it fails utterly, it is subjected once more to the gaze at close range, the sorcerer feeling rueful.  You ask yourself, how did I fall for this one?  Though you return it to your fly box, you really want to throw it away.  I once lit one with a match.

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I try to tie flies that will make me fish better, to fish more often, to dream of fish when I can’t fish, to remind myself to do what I can to make the world more accommodating to fish and, in short, to take further steps toward actually becoming a fish myself.

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(On mortality; the struggle of survival as witnessed in Nature; upon encountering a dead buck yearling in the spring grass “nearly devoured by coyotes who had seized its intestines and backed them several yards from the carcass”)

The face of creation takes in everything with a level stare.  When I was younger, manifestations of life’s fury were comfortably free of premonition.  Now they bear a gravity that dignifies the one-day lives of insects, the terrible slaughterhouse journey of livestock, and, of course, ourselves and our double handful of borrowed minerals.

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(On “such things that may be accumulated in memory and produce a renewable happiness”)

Here and there were small glassy panels of undisturbed water, and in one of these panels the end of my line stopped.  I lifted the rod tip and felt the weight that to an angler is not just weight.  A rainbow trout ripped straight downstream and with the full strength of the river on his tail, prepared to defeat me and my tackle-fueled pyramid scheme.  All the pressure of slow fishing rested on the solid shoulders of the fish and I stumbled and wallowed along behind, underplaying him, trying to remember if the leader had any wind knots and knowing that the tiny, barbless hook was but a faint connection.  Still, I had managed to detain this fish, and for the moment we were living in each other’s lives.

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When I drive down through a ranch yard or walk across a pasture toward a stream, my heart pounds for a glimpse of moving water.  Moving water has, all my life, been the most constant passion I’ve had.

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As soon as I got in the river, I felt how very cold the water was.  I’m always saying, though it’s hardly my idea, that the natural state of the universe is cold.  But cold-blooded trout and cold-blooded mayflies are indications of the world’s retained heat, as is the angler, wading upstream in a cold spring wind in search of delight.

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The river whispered past this spot in a kind of secretive hurry.  I got in and waded upstream, then sat on a small logjam to tie on a fly.  I was suddenly so extremely happy, the sight of this water was throwing me into a rapturous state, that I began to wonder what it could mean.  I sometimes wondered if there wasn’t something misanthropic in this passion for solitude.

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Across from me was an old cabin.  These old structures along Montana trout rivers are part of their provenance, part of what comes back to you, like the wooded elevations that shape and bend and push and pull each river so that as you try to re-create one in your mind the next winter, there is a point where you get lost, always an oxbow or meander where a certain memory whiteout occurs.  I am always anxious to return to such a stretch and rescue it from amnesia. 

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(As a Montana resident having lived for decades on a remote, 200-acre ranch; “all the information about the world failing to produce the feeling of the global village; the information only exaggerating the feeling of isolation”)

I had in my own heart the usual modicum of loneliness, annoyance, and desire for revenge, but it never seemed to make it to the river.  Isolation always held out the opportunity of solitude: the rivers kept coming down from the hills.

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There are times for every angler when he catches fish because the fish told him he could, and times when the trout announce they are through for the day.

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I wondered what it was about the edges of things that is so vital, the edges of habitat, the edges of seasons, always in the form of an advent.  Spring in Montana is a kind of pandemonium of release.  Certainly there are more sophisticated ways of taking it in than mine.  But going afield with my fishing rod seemed not so intrusive, and the ceremony helped, quickening my memory back through an entire life spent fishing. 

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“Sophisticated angler” is an oxymoron.  And if it wasn’t, it would be nothing to strive for.  Angling is where the child, if not the infant, gets to go on living.

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(As guest on an annual trip with friends, sleeping riverside in a small fishing lodge)

It is a great pleasure for a family man to sleep in some building by himself once in a while; I slept that night away in a kind of mock-bachelor bliss, the windows wide open and the chilly mountain air pouring over my lofty comforter.  My first home was made of logs, and the smell and solidity of those structures restored my highly eroded sense of well-being.

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During the emergence of the duns, I managed to catch several small but handsome and always mythologically perfect and wonderful brown trout.  I was swept by the perfection of things: the glorious shape of each trout, the angelic miniature perfection of mayflies, and by the pure wild silk of the Big Hole River.  For such things are we placed on this careening mudball.

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Though drift boats have proliferated beyond reason, it is also a terrific way to see the country while maintaining an air of purpose.  As you float, the all-important bank unrolls before you through the course of the day like a variegated ribbon of earth and water.

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It is a wonderful thing to be reminded of the variety of beauties displayed in the quarry of trout fishermen.  The brook trout has a silky sleekness in the hand.  Browns always feel like you expect fish to feel; rainbows often feel blocky and muscular; the brook trout exists within an envelope of perfect northerly sleekness.  He is a great original, to be appreciated poetically, for he is not a demanding game fish.  Some of the most appalling arias in angling literature are directed at this lovely creature, who was with us before the Ice Age.

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I intensely valued the stream-bred rainbows I’d caught, small-headed relative to their breadth and wonderfully marked with bands of stardust pink.  This unpurposeful note of festivity is matched by their vital show when hooked, by their abandoned vaults for freedom.  The great privilege is the moment one is released, when the small, strong fish moves from your hand to renew its hold upstream.  Then it’s time to go.

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Any river reminds us of others, and the logic of a new one is a revelation.  An undisturbed river is as perfect a thing as we will ever know, every refractive slide of cold water a glimpse of eternity.

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A cold wind eddied down the river into my face, and I was ready to decide that to everything there is a season and that trout season was over.  Fall gives us a vague feeling that the end of everything is near.

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Young anglers love new rivers the way they love the rest of their lives.  Time doesn’t seem to be of the essence and somewhere in the system is what they are looking for.

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Current is a mysterious thing.  It is the motion of the river leaving us, and it is as curious and thrilling as a distant train at night.  Things that pass us, go somewhere else, and don’t come back seem to communicate directly with the soul.  That the fisherman plies his craft on the surface of such an element possibly accounts for his contemplative nature.

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These waters, pouring from high in a Montana wilderness, are bound for the Gulf of Mexico.  The idea that so much as a single molecule of the rushing chute before me was headed for Tampico was as eerie as the moon throwing a salty flood over the tidelands and then retrieving it.

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(That “less is more.” The author’s belief in practicality, as opposed to any aggrandizement of gear or products deemed purposeful for general angling success)

Getting rid of stuff is a matter of ceremony.  The winter has usually made me yield to dubious gadgets, and I’m at war with these if the main idea of fishing is to be preserved.

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Weird rod weights reflect armchair fantasies and often produce chagrin on the water.

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As I face new water, I always ask myself if I ought to fish with a nymph or not.  Camus said that the only serious question is whether or not to commit suicide.  This is rather like the nymph question.

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Mortality being what it is, any new river could be your last.  This charmless notion runs very deep in us and can produce a sweet and consoling inventory of all the previous rivers in your life.

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Like the trout, we must find a way of moving through water with the least amount of displacement.  The more we fish, the more weightlessly and quietly we move through a river and among its fish, and the more we resemble our own minds in this bliss of angling.

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Angling doesn’t turn on stunts.  The steady movements of the habitual gatherer produce the best harvest.

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(On releasing a captured fish from the clutch of one’s grip)

I love the feeling I get when the fish realize they’re free.  There seems to be an amazed pause.  Then they shoot out of your hand as though you could easily change your mind.

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The middle of a bright day can be as dull as it is timeless.  Visibility is so perfect you forget it is seldom a confidence builder for trout.  The little imperfections of the leader, the adamant crinkles standing up from the surface, are clear to both parties.

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The shadows of afternoon seem to give meaning to the angler’s day on about the same scale that fall gives meaning to his year.  As always, I could feel in the first hints of darkness a mutual alertness between me and the trout.  This vague shadow the trout and I cross progresses from equinox to equinox.  Our mutuality grows.

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The selective trout is that uncompromising creature in whose spirit the angler attempts to read his own fortune.

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(On new water, and his catch “in the final light” that saves the day)

It was another short, thick, buttery brown, and the fish that kept me from flunking my first day on that river.  It’s hard to know ahead of time which fish is giving the test.

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In the canyon the trout’s range of travel is bounded by falls, sudden declivities or change of altitude in the slab rock.  The trout live above or below such a place; these are separate civilizations.

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We cast our big, visible dries on the glossy rush, and quickly trout soar into focus and vanish with our offerings.  Rods bow and lines shear through the water.  Handsome cutthroat trout are beached and released in the gravel, wriggling back into deep water and flickering invisibly into the pale water curtain.

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(On the author’s sentiment, regarding Montana’s only “acceptable realpolitik” of its finned natural resource)

If the trout are lost, smash the state.

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More than any other fish, trout are dependent upon the ambiance in which they are caught.  Whether it is the trout or the angler who is more sensitized to the degeneration of habitat would be hard to say, but probably it is the trout. 

………………

The last chance you get at overall strategy in trout fishing, before you lose yourself in the game itself, is during the period called “rigging up.” 

………………

The river is a fluid envelope for trout, occasionally marred by the fish themselves rising to take an insect and punctuating the glassy run with a whorl that opens and spirals downstream like a smoke ring. 

………………

You can walk in any direction of the compass from here and sooner or later you’ll run into a trout.  And you see, at some point, that you will keep making that walk.

………………

(On jetties, the “great and successful places for producing happiness”)

In some ways, there is nothing like the society of a good jetty.  The retirees, the down-and-out, the economizing housewife, the driven boys, the exposure to the whimsy of all weathers, the fickle divination of angling destiny falling where it would up and down the length of the jetty, all contributed to a soap opera wherein each hooked fish produced a mob of hopefuls casting across one another’s lines.

………………

(On fishing Key West in the 1960’s and 70’s, “a great and corrupt gardenia of an island in a wilderness of shoals and mangroves where we sometimes went from old wooden bars” and only hours thereafter “before the sun came up” were “fighting several waves of sickness, off looking for fish in the glare”)

I remember the special horror of fighting wild tarpon with a bar-life muzziness on my face and my clothes revealing beer stains, cigarette burns, and head shop perfumes.  Looking back upon those days when nothing was expected of us and you could wait all day for a tide, live like dogs, and look for fish with an unreasonable zealotry, I wonder at the wisdom of making fishing “part” of my life.

……………… 

(On the transformation of Key West, once “a goony bird island,” a “tropical, weather-blasted rock with humanity clinging to it in suitable humility” that ultimately, “has always been changing”)

It remains an odd pleasure to revisit these snapshots of the good times.  There is nothing to compare to my years in the Keys as a reminder that Janis Joplin had it right: get it while you can.  After that, it’s too late.

………………

What is most emphatic in angling is made so by the long silences – the unproductive periods.  No form of fishing offers such elaborate silences as fly-fishing for permit.

………………

To permit, the fly was anathema; one look and they were gone.  It seemed futile, all wrong, like trying to bait a tiger with watermelons.

………………

(On permit taxidermy, specifically the fish’s “low recognition factor” to non-anglers)

If you have one mounted, you’ll always be explaining what it is to people who thought you were talking about your fishing license in the first place.

………………

The fly fell with lucky, agonizing perfection, three feet in front of the permit on its exact line of travel.  Without hesitation the fish darted forward and took: the one-in-a-thousand shot.  I lifted the rod, feeling the rigid bulk of the still unalarmed fish, and set the hook.  And then the rod suddenly doubled and my leader broke.  A loop of line had tightened itself around the handle of the reel.  I was ready for the rubber room.

………………

Then the fish was on the reel.  I could witness its wildly extending wake.  At 150 yards the fish stopped, and I got back line.  I kept at it until the fish was within 80 yards of the boat.  Then it suddenly made a wild, undirected run, not permitlike at all, and I could see the shark chasing it.  He hit the permit once, killed it, and ate it, worrying it like a dog and bloodying the water.  Then, an instant later, I had the shark on my line and running.  I fought him with irrational care: I now planned to gaff the blacktip and retrieve my permit piece by piece.  When the inevitable cutoff came I dropped the rod in the boat and, empty-handed, wondered what I had done to deserve this.

………………

I had whitened my nose and mouth with zinc oxide ointment, and felt, handling the mysterious rods and flies, like a shaman.

………………

The fish, six of them, were surging toward us in a wedge.  They ran from 80 to 110 pounds, slow, dark torpedoes.  The big lead fish pulled up behind the fly, trailed, and then made the shoveling, open-jawed uplift of a strike that is not soon forgotten.

………………

Then, once it had seen the boat, felt the line and isolated a single point of resistance, it cleared out at a perfectly insane rate of acceleration that made water run three feet up my line as it sliced through the ocean.  The jumps – wild, greyhounding, end-over-end, rattling – were all crazily blurred as they happened, while I pictured my reel exploding like a racing clutch and filling me with shrapnel.

………………

We followed, alternately gaining and losing line.  Then, in some way, at the end of this blurred episode, the permit was flashing beside the boat, looking nearly circular, and the only visual contradiction to his perfect poise was the intersecting line of leader seemingly inscribed from the tip of my arcing rod to the precise corner of his jaw.

………………

(On the author, having boated his 1st permit “in the face of an ungodly number of refusals and countless unrewarded hours”)

I was persuaded that once was not enough.  And indeed it wasn’t.  Thirty years have passed and none of the magic of permit fishing, not a trace of it, has gone.

………………

A tide book and a good memory are the first tools of the bonefisherman.

………………

The difficulty in seeing fish gives the veteran a real opportunity to lord it over the neophyte, gives him a chance to cultivate those small nuances of power that finally reveal him to be the Captain of the Skiff.  After that, the veteran can relax and radiate generosity. 

………………

(On bonefish, the “smallest and probably the hardest to see” flats fish)

The man who confuses angling with relaxation and lets his eye linger here will miss nine out of ten fish.

………………

It was as if the bonefish were in one room and I was in another: it was just a matter of opening the door in between.

………………

As the bonefisherman is sternly sophisticated by his quarry, his reverence for the creature increases.  Undeterred by toxic winds, block meetings, bulletproof taxicab partitions, or adventures with the Internal Revenue Service, he can perceive with his mind alone bonefish moving on remote ocean flats in the tongue of the flood.

………………

I was in that state of mind perhaps not peculiar to angling when things seem to be in a steep curve of deterioration, and I had a fatal sense that I was not at the end of it.

………………

We were in a small tropical sea trapped between the Atlantic and the Caribbean.  The Gulf Stream, that great violet river, poured northward just beyond my view, regulating the temperature of the world.  Once the moon was up, it appeared as a fixed portion of the universe while the clouds and weather of planet Earth poured over its face.  I thought of all the places and times in my amusing life I had looked to a full moon for even one suggestion I could do something with.  Weather is one of the things that goes on without you, and after a certain amount of living it is bracing to contemplate the many items not dependent upon you for their existence.

………………

In looking for one fish you find another – and maybe, in the end, you find it all.

………………

My glances for the net were premature.  A number of runs remained to be endured.  With a fish badly wanted, it is always simple to imagine the hook pulling free, the leader breaking, the dead feeling in the slack rod. 

………………

Facing a lack of hard information, the angler feels the invitation to elaborate his own sense of the fish’s presence.  Which is no more than to say you can face bravely those accusations of loafing when you have ruined a month chasing tarpon, racking your brain to understand their secret, sidling lives.

………………

Along the starboard gunwale, flexed tight against it, is the big kill gaff with its seven-foot hardwood handle, never to be used on a fish less than a world record, thought the goal is to train oneself to release fish, too.  Someday, when we have grown enough in the fishing, the gaff will be nailed up over my desk, a rather handsome old souvenir of barbaric times.

………………

I run it up to 4500 rpm.  Key West drops quickly behind and finally clusters at the end of our long arrow of a wake.  There is a sense of liberation as we run, civilization melting away while another country – mangrove keys, shallows, and open seas – forms around us.

………………

We sit down in the skiff, drifting under the dome of unsoiled marine sky.  Guy hands me a sandwich and we have our lunch, chewing and ruminating like cattle.  We are comfortable enough together that we can fall silent for long periods of time.  A flats skiff is a confined place and one in which potentials for irritation are brought to bear as surely as in an arctic cabin, but this comfort of solitude enhanced by companionship is the rarest commodity of angling.  Pure solitude, nearly its equal, is rather more available.

………………

(On scouting Florida Keys flats for migrating tarpon)

The bottom is dark with turtlegrass and we look hard to penetrate its surface.  At the same time we try to survey a wide range and watch for the faint wakes that look like a thumbnail pulled gently along under a sheet of silk.

………………

As they approach, their above-the-surface presence of wakes and splashes is replaced perceptually by the actual sight of fish as specific marine entities, individual torpedoes coming at you.  It is hideously unnerving, if you care about fishing.

………………

The fish were, in fact, traveling slowly toward us, rolling with open mouths and looking like a nest of enormous baby birds awaiting a worm.

………………

The fish is in the air, upside down, making a noise that reminds you of horse, thunderous and final; your eye remembers the long white rip in the ocean.  Then a short accelerated run is followed by an end-swapping jump by a game animal that has pulled all the stops.  At the third jump the run begins.  The fourth jump would be better observed through binoculars; the line no longer even points at the fish.

………………

Until you acquire enough knowledge of flats fishing to convert this lack of definition into the intricate and highly patterned habitat that it actually is, the sport is little more than a series of accidents, and maybe not even that.

………………

Fighting a permit is pure worry.  I worried about my knots and about the line to backing splice I’d done the night before.  I worried about the hinging effect, after hours of casting, on the knot at the fly.  I worried that fishing with a barbless hook had been taking sportsmanship too far.  I desperately wanted to land this fish.

………………

I felt the cool solidity and strength of the fish between my hands.  I stood in the river for a long while, holding her into the current and feeling the increasing strength in a kicking tail I could barely encompass with my grip.  As she swam off the shelf, she pulled a three-foot bow wake.

………………

My wife, less flatteringly, says that I am a salmon-steelhead whore.  When I have phone calls to return and she prefaces her listing of them with the suggestion that I get into my net stockings and high heels, I know that anadromous fish are at issue.

………………

There was a certain solace in having the majesty of a great river presumed as a place of seriousness, if not solemnity.  The river was your great wife and the very hem of her skirt must be honored.

………………

I cast for four or five hours without a sign of anything and rode back for lunch and an afternoon nap.  I wondered if I had appreciated that fish the night before as I should have.

………………

(On sea-trout fishing the Río Grande of Tierra del Fuego, Argentina, with trip companion Yvon Chouinard)

At last I began hooking up.  These fish were beyond big.  They were heavy and violent, taking the fly with a brutish malevolence.  By the standards of two lifelong fishermen – and we had a hundred years between us – we were so far into the zone that not even approaching night could drive us out.

………………

(On subduing a twenty-five-pound Patagonian brown trout)

Suddenly, a fish ran my fly down, making an eight-foot rip in the silky flow of the river.  I could feel this one well down into the cork of my double-hander.  The fight took us up and down the pool, and the weight I perceived at the end of my line kept my anxiety high.  Several times I thought I had the fish landed when it powered out of the shallows.  In the end, I never imagined such a trout belly would ever hang between two hands.

………………

We had the best fishing day we would ever have.  We were tired and vaguely stunned.  There was also a sense that wherever we’d been going as trout fisherman, we had just gotten there today.

………………

The world of the river became more enclosing, the hurtling power of the fish ever more emblematic of the force of wild things and the plentitude of undisturbed nature.

………………

I put as deep a bow in the rod as I dared and began following the fish downstream.  I beached this big male on a small point, beyond which I might not have been able to follow.  His lower jaw was so hooked it had worn a groove in the upper, and I was delighted to make certain this individual could make his contribution to the gene pool.

………………

No one in the world has wild, open country like the Russians, a possible ace-in-the-hole on a strangling planet.  Poets and naturalists could have understood this so much more comprehensively than I did, dragging my fly rod, but without it I probably would never have gotten there or stood for a week in a river coursing through the tundra to the Barents Sea.

………………

I’m afraid that the best angling is always a respite from burden.  Good anglers should lead useful lives, and useful lives are marked by struggle, and difficulty, and even pain.  Perhaps the agony of simple mortality should be enough.  But probably it is not.

………………

(On fish that “surge up and boil,” but “stop without taking the fly”)

There is a kind of anxiety that comes of knowing an interested fish awaits.  You sense that fate has spoken: You asked for it, here it is.  There is a slight feeling of dread.  If the fish doesn’t come back, there is reason to assume I have been at fault; if it returns, I’m absolved.

………………

(Then, on a fish’s “leisurely inspection and refusal” “feeling that this dismissal was perhaps final”)

This time the refusal was slow and considered, amazingly so in view of the current speed.  In this kind of situation, you are aware that you have unsuccessfully played another card and that the number of remaining cards in uncertain but not unlimited.  I made another cast and saw no sign of the fish.

………………

(And ultimately, when the author “tried it again, the fish’s nonappearance seemed emphatic”)

My attempts to engage the mind of this fish to my advantage had failed utterly.  Using my own tackle, this simple creature had turned the tables and driven me crazy.  When I looked out at the river and imagined beginning another long search for a fish, I was discouraged.  So, like an old and chronic sinner gazing into his Bible in hopes of a last-minute reconsideration by God, I once more opened my fly book and peered within.

………………

When I released her, she picked her way out among the boulders in an unhurried progress to deep water.  I found myself at a great altitude yet with all of my life in which to come down.  Indeed, as I write this years later, those moments are inescapable and vivid.  What a thing to own.

………………

(On local folklore and superstition; “the deficits of otherworldly auspices”)

He would catch fish at a good clip, then become possessed by a “hoodoo.” A hoodoo evidently is some sort of bird, or possibly a bat.  When it settles, imperceptibly, between the shoulder blades of the unsuspecting angler, it becomes impossible to catch a fish.  One can hook them, but they always get off.

………………

He had waded out to a thin spit of bottom where one could barely stand up and hooked the biggest fish he had ever seen on the river.  After a long battle, the fish was within a rod’s length but would not accompany him ashore, nor could he bring it to hand.  At this stalemate, the man and fish faced off for a long time, the latter making no further bid for escape and the former unable to cross the deep trough to the beach.  A prolong acquaintanceship ensued, at the end of which the hook pulled and the fish went to its next appointment.  Fate had dealt him a heavy blow.

………………

(Excerpts from “The Compleat Angler” by Izaak Walton, first published in 1653)

“I envy not him that eats better meat than I do, nor him that is richer, or that wears better clothes than I do; I envy nobody but him, and him only that catches more fish than I do.”

“Angling is an art that like mathematics, can never be fully learnt.”

“Rivers and the inhabitants of the watery element were made for wise men to contemplate and fools to pass by without consideration.”

Angling, to Walton, is about being fully alive: “I was for that time lifted above earth, and possess’d joys not promised in my birth.”  Besides rivers, we seldom fill our minds with “fears of many things that will never be.”  Here, “honest, civil, quiet men” are free from dread.

………………

The technocracy of modern angling has not been conducive to the actual reading of Walton.  Today’s fisherman may own The Compleat Angler as an adornment, but turns to his burgeoning gadgets for real twentieth-century consolation.  In Walton’s words, his heart is no longer fitted for quietness and contemplation.

………………

It is not given to every soul pining for the natural world to be a naturalist.  Most of us require a game to play, whether hunting, bird-watching, angling, or sailing, and each create superb opportunities to observe the weather, the land under changing light, the movement of water.

………………

(Although the “lore and advice” of The Compleat Angler “are largely obsolete,” a universal and timeless truth is nonetheless captured by its pages, as angling today “still demands immersion, from air to water, from warm blood to cold, to a view of the racing universe and all its stars through a river’s flowing lens”)

And here, learned, equitable Izaak Walton, by demonstrating how watchfulness and awe may be taken within from the natural world, has much to tell us; that is, less about how to catch fish than about how to be thankful that we may catch fish.  He tells us how to live.

………………

We stopped on a narrow bridge high over the stream to look for salmon.  This is still something of a miracle to me, peering from country bridges at sea-run fish.  We used to have more of these fish in America than anyone so we killed them off.

………………

It is surprising how much a steady current of the unknown adds to the excitement of angling.  In streambed hydrology the fabulous secrets known to the fish are revealed to us only by experience.

………………

A river, once you are out in it, has several kinds of sorcery that make you wonder if you are truly doing things as you should. 

………………

Coming to know water offers the prospect of crossing a “shadow line,” beyond which a profoundly satisfying sense of where you are, even what you are, enters your soul, and you begin to fish with such simplicity and doubtlessness that it is of little consequence if you fail to catch something.

………………

A great fisherman should strive for equanimity in the face of achievement, and this cannot be trafficked.  Probably all who write about fishing should be disqualified.  Most fishing writers have tried to show us how much smarter they are than everybody else, creating an atmosphere of argument and competition.

………………

He moved slightly.  I had to assume something had happened, so I lifted the rod and concluded I was either into the fish or the bottom.  My line bellied out downstream briefly, then tightened as the leader sheared upstream.

………………

I told myself that I would never land this fish and I was right.  Ploughing around in the rocks, flinging water everywhere, he liberated himself as decisively as he had taken my silly little fly.  I felt oddly content as I sat at the bottom of the canyon, and willing to wait to fish again until I absorbed it all, the idea of the streamlined shapes coming in from the sea, by the moon, by the tide, by whatever mystery, up through the sheep pastures, bent on some eternal genetic strategy.  They know what they’re doing.

………………

Fishing is infinitely subjective and we sense, I think rightly, that all instruction is unreliable.  After a century of science in materials and the design of fly rods, no generally accepted set of tapers for a trout rod exists.  There is more objective agreement about cellos, fiber optics, and nuclear submarines.

………………

The meaning of fishing lies more in its context than its practice: a day alone on a remote steelhead river; floating with your child; fishing a lake with your family when picnic preparations overpower the angler’s concentration; seeking a fish whose race is threatened by your own or whose ancestral breeding grounds have been lost to town crooks.  Fishing is sometimes about a disinclination to go fishing at all.  An important part of life, maybe the most important part, is the quest by each of us to discover something we believe to be more worthy and permanent than we are individually.  The truth which angling can lead to about our place in nature is one such greater thing. 

………………

The dream of fly-fishing is one of simplicity, and most of us pursue it in the same way: acquire a blizzard of flies and gear in the belief that you are casting a wide net and that, at some point, you will get rid of all but the few perfect items and angle in the dreamed-of simplicity.  For most, this pile grows until death brings it to a stop.  What’s at work here has nothing to do with necessity but rather with the elaboration of the dream that is fishing.

………………

Right now, a large variety of magnificent reels is available to choose from.  Most have one thing in common: they’re far better than they need to be.

………………

The backing on a reel usually dies of old age before it even sees the light of day.  Rarely does a fish go a hundred yards, yet most reels designed for this purpose carry a quarter-mile of backing.  If a tarpon, permit, or bonefish gets more than a hundred yards from you, your problems have nothing to do with your backing.

………………

(A proposition, that the fly angler should strive to eliminate “lost motion” so as to facilitate “smoothness,” one of the many traits that ultimately “separate the men from the boys.”)

There are always a few anglers blessed with genius and inspiration.  But the angler who accepts both his gifts and limitations, who recognizes the importance of keeping his fly in the water, who abjures tackle tinkering once he reaches the river, and who strives to fish coherently throughout the day will usually, finally, succeed.  A late start in the morning prevents the fly from fishing; a crooked cast delays a fly from fishing; fly changing, leisurely meals and a forgotten bailing can all play a part in separating the fly from its job.

………………

(On the plaquing, age-old question, “why do fishermen lie?”)

I have a hunch that most anglers do not wish to compete but have found no successful way to avoid competition when fishing with others.  (The angler) …may dispense with matters of competition by lying about his results.  The most incredulous of his comrades have probably come by their disbelief honestly: they’ve been lying, too.  A day if the life has been suitably taken in, and in this avalanche of lies, a kind of truth has been served.

………………

Several times I looked up and saw at a distance, his rod deeply bowed and his fly line shearing an arc toward deeper water.  We were happy workers on a big bonefish farm.

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© 199
9 (Vintage Books)